Cosmetics

Promoting ethical approaches in cosmetics standards

Cosmetics is one of the sectors selected for Outcome 1 of the UK-China Business Environment Programme Standards Strand: improvement in the adoption and use of International Standards in China.

The cosmetics supply chain extends to impoverished areas in China, and the industry supports job creation in rural communities. China currently favours (and in some cases mandates) animal testing requirements on cosmetics products and associated ingredients. However, regions including the European Union do not accept cosmetics imports tested on animals. Alternatives to animal testing are not only seen as safer, cheaper and more ethical, but will increase the number of export markets open to Chinese cosmetics companies, hence supporting job creation for disadvantaged communities and inclusive sustainable economic growth.

The current animal testing requirement on imported cosmetics presents a barrier to UK (and international) exporters of cosmetics products who would benefit from adoption of better and safer cosmetics testing methods in China.

Cosmetics standards in the Chinese context

China’s cosmetics industry has been growing rapidly in the past decade and is now one of the key drivers of China’s economy.

The sale of cosmetic products in China is controlled by the National Medical Products Administration (NMPA), which falls under the State Administration for Market Regulations (SAMR). Approval for sale of cosmetics is based on product safety and many of these requirements are contained in National Standards. In many cases the safety of products and ingredients has traditionally been assessed using animal testing systems.

The market for imported cosmetics in China is still large and growing, with some segments showing significant year on year growth. According to an article by World’s Top Exports, China’s global purchases of imported beauty cosmetics and skincare products totalled US$5.8 billion in 2018, and the UK was the fifth largest source with USD420.1 million worth of products (a 159.2% increase since 2013) imported to China. Adoption of the appropriate global standards and practices will support UK industry’s engagement with China.

NMPA has recently published a new Cosmetics Supervision and Administration Regulation (CSAR), which includes a new approach to the regulation of these products in line with international best practices and making use of Safety Assessment. This regulation will draw on a wide range of data sources including non-animal tests and is internationally accepted as the standard for ensuring the safety pre-market of cosmetic products. China’s current regulatory reform will greatly influence its cosmetics industry and scientific research in the future.

The majority of Chinese companies in this industry are SMEs and lack the necessary skills in Safety Assessment. They therefore rely on animal testing, which is less ethical as well as being less precise and reliable. It is important therefore to ensure that Chinese companies have access to the relevant expertise to compete effectively when the mandate for animal testing of imported products is removed.

Cosmetics standards in the UK context

Most of the UK Cosmetics industry follows international guidance, such as the (European) Scientific Community on Consumer Safety (SCCS) and International Cooperation on Cosmetics Regulation (ICCR).

International cosmetic product standards are developed by the ISO/TC 217 Cosmetics committee whose aim it is to develop international standards in order to improve the quality and safety of cosmetic products and to facilitate world trade.

ISO/TC 217 has 40 participating NSB members (including China) and 30 Observer members.
ISO/TC 217 has published 31 standards and 11 are currently in development, most become harmonized with European cosmetics standards.
ISO/TC 217’s Working Groups cover Microbiological standards and limits (WG1), Analytical methods (WG3), Terminology (WG4) and Sun protection test methods (WG7). However, China does not hold any of these Convenorships at present. Cosmetics products that are organic and/or for men are particularly popular in China.

Step 1 – Adoption of standards

Training and dissemination around International Standards for safety assessment will lead to their adoption and use
Cosmetics business opportunities will increase if International Standards are adopted in China
Adoption and use of International Standards in China will lead to a reduction (and ultimately elimination) of the need to test cosmetics products on animals whilst assuring the safety of cosmetics in China

Step 2 – Piloting of standards

BSI and NMPA have proposed to pilot the implementation of suitable standards for cosmetics in China

Pilot projects will support selected Chinese companies adopt better and safer manufacturing practices, representing a move away from animal testing methods and other less safe testing methods.